Mouse DPI Calculator

Every aiming conversation between gamers eventually comes down to two numbers: your DPI and your sensitivity. This mouse DPI calculator combines them properly. In Part 1, enter your mouse DPI and your in-game sensitivity and you will get your eDPI — the number that actually describes how fast your aim moves — plus the distance your mouse travels for a full 360° turn in Valorant or CS2. In Part 2, you can measure the DPI your mouse is really producing, which is not always the number the box promised.

Both tools run in your browser on Speed Test UK, with nothing to install. Use them in order: measure first, calculate second. An eDPI worked out from a wrong DPI is a wrong eDPI, and quietly copying a professional’s settings on top of an inaccurate mouse is one of the most common reasons “pro settings” feel nothing like the videos.

How to Use This Mouse DPI Calculator

• Step 1: Find your mouse DPI. It lives in your mouse software (Logitech G Hub, Razer Synapse, SteelSeries GG and similar), or on a DPI button cycle if your mouse has one.
• Step 2: Find your in-game sensitivity in the game’s settings menu — the raw number, not a percentage of a slider.
• Step 3: Enter both numbers in Part 1 and pick your game. Valorant uses a yaw of 0.07; CS2 uses 0.022. A custom yaw box is there for other titles.
• Step 4: Read your eDPI and your cm/360, and check the verdict against typical professional ranges.
• Step 5: If you plan to change DPI, put the new DPI in the converter box and it will tell you the sensitivity that keeps exactly the same feel.
• Step 6: Run Part 2 to measure your real DPI. If it differs from the stated figure by more than about 5%, use the measured number everywhere.

What Is eDPI, and Why Does It Matter?

DPI — dots per inch, sometimes called CPI — describes your hardware: how many counts your sensor reports for each inch the mouse moves. Sensitivity describes your software: how much the game multiplies that movement. Neither number alone tells you how fast your crosshair travels, because a player on 400 DPI with a sensitivity of 2.0 and a player on 1600 DPI with 0.5 are moving at exactly the same effective speed.

eDPI fixes that. It is simply DPI × in-game sensitivity, and it is the standard way players compare settings fairly. Change mice, change DPI, lend your setup to a friend — if the eDPI matches, the aim feel matches. That is also why the converter in Part 1 works: keep the product the same and only the ingredients change.

cm/360 is eDPI translated into the real world: the physical distance, in centimetres, your mouse travels for one complete in-game turn. It is worked out as 360 ÷ (yaw × eDPI) × 2.54. Low-sensitivity players may need 50 cm or more for a full turn; high-sensitivity players can spin in under 20 cm. Your cm/360 tells you instantly whether your mousepad and desk are big enough for your settings — a fact no sensitivity number alone reveals.

cm/360 also earns its keep when you play more than one game. eDPI cannot be carried between titles with different yaw values — 400 eDPI in Valorant feels nothing like 400 eDPI in CS2 — but a physical distance can. If you know your preferred cm/360, you can work backwards in any new game: pick a sensitivity, measure the turn it gives you with a ruler against your monitor’s field of view, and adjust until the same sweep of your arm produces the same turn. Players who switch between tactical shooters and faster arena-style games often keep two or three known-good cm/360 figures written down for exactly this reason. It takes ten minutes once, and it ends the familiar first-week wobble every time a new title launches.

Pro Player eDPI Ranges: Valorant and CS2

Professionals cluster in surprisingly narrow bands, and those bands differ by game because the games reward different things. Valorant’s precise, hold-the-angle gunplay pulls pros towards low eDPI; CS2 sits higher, reflecting its faster clearing and longer history of varied styles. Published settings change as players tweak them, so treat named figures as well-documented examples rather than permanent records.

Two lessons hide in that table. First, almost nobody at the top plays at the extreme DPI figures mice advertise — 800 DPI is the most common hardware setting in both games, with the feel adjusted in software. Second, copying the exact eDPI of a favourite player is a reasonable starting point, not a destination: hand size, mouse weight, grip and mousepad all shift what suits you. Find the band first, then adjust in small steps of about 5% and give each change a few days before judging it.

How to Measure Your Real DPI (Part 2 Explained)

Part 2 of the tool counts your mouse movement for you. Click the pad and your pointer locks to the page; every count your mouse sends is accumulated from the browser’s movement readings. Move the mouse one exact, measured distance — five inches against a ruler or tape measure is a good choice — then click or press Esc. Measured DPI is simply the counts divided by the inches: 4,000 counts over 5 inches is 800 DPI.

Why bother? Because stated DPI is a claim, not a measurement. Independent testing of gaming mice routinely finds real DPI landing 5–15% away from the set figure, and the gap is usually worse on inexpensive mice and at very high DPI steps. A 10% error means your carefully copied 800 eDPI is really 880 — enough to feel “somehow off” forever without ever knowing why.

For a clean measurement: turn off Windows “Enhance pointer precision” first (it is acceleration, and acceleration means DPI changes with speed, so no single figure exists), move in one steady motion at a normal gaming speed rather than creeping, and repeat the test three times. Consistent results within a few percent mean you have your number. Wildly different results mean acceleration is still on somewhere — check the game and your mouse software as well as Windows. If your browser will not allow pointer lock, the tool offers a manual mode: enter a pixel count and a measured distance and it does the same division for you.

Choosing the Right DPI and Sensitivity for You

Forget the marketing numbers on the box. Modern sensors perform well anywhere between 400 and 3,200 DPI, and there is no accuracy prize for running 16,000. What matters is the pairing:

• Pick a DPI your mouse handles natively and comfortably — 800 or 1600 suits most people and most sensors.
• Set your sensitivity so your eDPI lands in a sensible band for your game (use the table above).
• Check your cm/360 against your mousepad. If a 360 needs 45 cm and your pad is 30 cm wide, you will lift and reset constantly — raise eDPI a little or buy a bigger pad.
• Change one variable at a time, in small steps, and test with our reaction time test and some honest gameplay rather than one good round.

Desktop feel matters too. If your new DPI makes everyday Windows use frantic or sluggish, remember the in-game sensitivity only exists inside the game — you can keep a comfortable desktop DPI and still hit any eDPI by adjusting the game’s number. Guides from Microsoft Support cover the Windows pointer settings, and your mouse maker’s software (Logitech G, Razer) is where per-profile DPI steps are set.

Troubleshooting: When the Numbers Feel Wrong

• Same eDPI, different feel after switching game: the yaw differs. eDPI only guarantees identical feel within the same game (or same yaw); cm/360 is the figure that travels between titles.
• Measured DPI changes with movement speed: acceleration is on somewhere — Windows pointer precision, mouse software, or an in-game “raw input: off” setting.
• Measured DPI is far from the set figure at high DPI only: some sensors interpolate their highest steps. Stay at or below the sensor’s well-behaved range.
• Aim feels jittery at very high DPI with low sensitivity: tiny hand movements become large counts. Lower the DPI and raise sensitivity to the same eDPI.
• Everything checks out but aim still feels inconsistent: look beyond settings — a worn mousepad, a dirty sensor lens, or a polling rate your USB port struggles with. Our click speed test can also reveal a mouse that double-registers or drops inputs.
• The desktop cursor feels different from the game at the same DPI: the game may be ignoring raw input, or Windows pointer speed may not be at its middle (6/11) notch. Set Windows to the middle notch so one count equals one pixel, and enable raw input in the game so it reads the mouse directly.

And if your aim is fine in practice tools but falls apart online, suspect the connection before the mouse. Latency spikes make targets appear to teleport, which no sensitivity can fix — run the connection checks on Speed Test UK and compare a wired and wireless result.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is eDPI and how is it calculated?

eDPI is your mouse DPI multiplied by your in-game sensitivity: 800 DPI × 0.5 sensitivity = 400 eDPI. It is the standard figure for comparing aim speed between players, because two setups with the same eDPI move the crosshair at the same speed in the same game, whatever the individual settings are.

What eDPI do Valorant and CS2 pros use?

Most Valorant professionals play between roughly 200 and 400 eDPI — TenZ’s published 320 is a typical example. CS2 professionals mostly sit between 600 and 1,200 eDPI, with famous names at both ends: NiKo’s published 536 near the bottom and s1mple’s 1,236 near the top. The full table above shows the ranges and examples.

Is a higher DPI better for gaming?

Not by itself. What matters is the resulting eDPI and whether your sensor behaves cleanly at that step. Very high DPI with a tiny sensitivity can feel jittery, because small hand movements register as large counts. Most professionals use 400–1600 DPI and tune the feel in the game.

Why is my measured DPI different from the setting in my mouse software?

Because the set figure is nominal. Sensor tolerances, lens height, mousepad surface and firmware maths all shift the real result, commonly by 5–15% and sometimes more on budget mice. A measured figure from Part 2 of this tool is the one to trust when you calculate eDPI or copy settings.

How do I keep the same aim feel when I change DPI?

Keep the product constant: new sensitivity = old eDPI ÷ new DPI. Doubling DPI from 800 to 1600 means halving sensitivity, for example from 1.0 to 0.5. The converter box in Part 1 does this sum for you, and the same trick works in reverse if a new mouse only offers certain DPI steps.

What is a good cm/360?

It depends on the game and your desk. Tactical-shooter players commonly play between about 25 and 55 cm/360 — larger distances favour precision, smaller ones favour fast turns and smaller mousepads. There is no correct figure, but your cm/360 must fit your mousepad with room to spare, or you will constantly lift and re-centre the mouse. If your setup still feels off after the numbers check out, use our click speed test and reaction test to check the mouse itself is registering cleanly — the fault is not always in the settings.

Get Your Numbers Right, Then Practise

Measure your real DPI in Part 2, drop it into Part 1, and note your eDPI and cm/360 somewhere you will find them again. Settings you have verified beat settings you have copied, every time. Then head back to Speed Test UK whenever you change mice, mousepads or games — two minutes of measuring saves weeks of wondering why your aim feels wrong.